Life is too good to be true...
I have found the ultimate FREE email... and got my choice of name... now I need to capitalize on this, and start "collecting" Gmail names, so that I can turn around and sell them to the people who have those names. Take my email... arinder@gmail.com. It is the first opportunity for me to get that name on a free email server that will suit all my needs + 1 gig of free memory, that's 25 times as much storage as my hotmail account.
Okay, that is enough about my W-life... that's web, wireless, whatever you want - Today was a most epic surf session ever in a wetsuit, the likes of which I haven't felt since longtime. Out there in the water, my senses were in tune. Everything just clicked so effortlessly... it was as if the wave followed me wherever I paddled.
It was crystal clear as soon as you pass the first sandbar... and the bigger waves were getting upwards of maybe head-high. It felt like windswell on the surface, these little lips of water licked the surface, breaking... yet it was so glassy.
The first waves that I started to hit were all lefts! I was getting so comfortable that I didn't want to switch it up. Finally, I started working this section of water that was throwing some wide right-shaped bowls, and I was all over it. Dude was hanging right to my outside, but was never deep enough, so I kept paddling around him as the set crept in. Each time, I would get right into the peak, and drop in on the outside. I must have taken 4-5 solid waves right in front of him over a period of 30 minutes.
Unlike any other day, I was paddling into every great set wave, sometimes going far outside to go for the rogue 8 ft. wave, and often putting myself right in position to get into the belly of it, with just enough time to turn around and kick right in. The drops were so smooth, and usually pretty fast. Reading the waves out there was all happening so naturally. I was paddling back and forth the whole time, often working a spot for 3-4 waves, and then moving to another bar that looked fun.
All the rides were solid. Any one could be picked out and considered really fun. The smaller ones usually lasted pretty long because the unbroken part of the wave would reform on the next shallower bar. My biggest wave was no higher than two feet overhead, but it was breaking fast, and as it took me up, it was a steep, fast right down along the wall, and sticking to the bottom of it, I flew past the breaking lip and shot out the other end of the wave at least 100 feet from where I began. It all happened so fast that I feel like it didn't take more than 5-6 seconds, but it felt like time stopped during some of those seconds.
I was having so much fun, and it didn't seem like I had a break for the entire last 45 minutes of surfing. Afterwards, I felt lifted... I'm going to float a few inches over the ground for the next couple hours, maybe longer. It is such a majestic feeling to ride, and ride well at that.
I'm going out everyday this weekend, and with some help from the storms out there, we get some choke surf in two days, cuz. Fa' real.
Met a hottie last night over grinds. That was epic, too. And he got choke ono friends. We gonna wax up dem sticks and go fa rip.
I have found the ultimate FREE email... and got my choice of name... now I need to capitalize on this, and start "collecting" Gmail names, so that I can turn around and sell them to the people who have those names. Take my email... arinder@gmail.com. It is the first opportunity for me to get that name on a free email server that will suit all my needs + 1 gig of free memory, that's 25 times as much storage as my hotmail account.
Okay, that is enough about my W-life... that's web, wireless, whatever you want - Today was a most epic surf session ever in a wetsuit, the likes of which I haven't felt since longtime. Out there in the water, my senses were in tune. Everything just clicked so effortlessly... it was as if the wave followed me wherever I paddled.
It was crystal clear as soon as you pass the first sandbar... and the bigger waves were getting upwards of maybe head-high. It felt like windswell on the surface, these little lips of water licked the surface, breaking... yet it was so glassy.
The first waves that I started to hit were all lefts! I was getting so comfortable that I didn't want to switch it up. Finally, I started working this section of water that was throwing some wide right-shaped bowls, and I was all over it. Dude was hanging right to my outside, but was never deep enough, so I kept paddling around him as the set crept in. Each time, I would get right into the peak, and drop in on the outside. I must have taken 4-5 solid waves right in front of him over a period of 30 minutes.
Unlike any other day, I was paddling into every great set wave, sometimes going far outside to go for the rogue 8 ft. wave, and often putting myself right in position to get into the belly of it, with just enough time to turn around and kick right in. The drops were so smooth, and usually pretty fast. Reading the waves out there was all happening so naturally. I was paddling back and forth the whole time, often working a spot for 3-4 waves, and then moving to another bar that looked fun.
All the rides were solid. Any one could be picked out and considered really fun. The smaller ones usually lasted pretty long because the unbroken part of the wave would reform on the next shallower bar. My biggest wave was no higher than two feet overhead, but it was breaking fast, and as it took me up, it was a steep, fast right down along the wall, and sticking to the bottom of it, I flew past the breaking lip and shot out the other end of the wave at least 100 feet from where I began. It all happened so fast that I feel like it didn't take more than 5-6 seconds, but it felt like time stopped during some of those seconds.
I was having so much fun, and it didn't seem like I had a break for the entire last 45 minutes of surfing. Afterwards, I felt lifted... I'm going to float a few inches over the ground for the next couple hours, maybe longer. It is such a majestic feeling to ride, and ride well at that.
I'm going out everyday this weekend, and with some help from the storms out there, we get some choke surf in two days, cuz. Fa' real.
Met a hottie last night over grinds. That was epic, too. And he got choke ono friends. We gonna wax up dem sticks and go fa rip.
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