Friday, December 17, 2004

the wave of the day!

Paddling around this vast body of water, I feel like a little piece of seaweed floating around. The waves are coming in sets with long periods in between. The longer periods make the paddle out very manageable. The waves are breaking far off to my left, and the distance seems excessive between peaks. Within a few minutes, the peak to my left has shifted closer to where I am floating, and I can begin to see the topography of the landscape under water as I observe the crest of the wave shifting back and forth.

Soon I am paddlig right for the dark shadow forming under the face of a wave breaking in front of me... I turn, paddle, kick out, and it's on! These waves are breaking far out today... the churning water has created a lot of foam on the surface of the water, and you can hear thousands of tiny bubbles popping all around. A few monsters break on the outside, and as I paddle further out, the foam collects around my face like a beard of bath bubbles, and smells salty and kind of rancid. I dip myself fully underwater after I escape the sea of foam.

The currents eventually bring me back to where I first paddled out, and I watch a surfer swimming in with half a board left. The waves are heavy... I paddle around, trying to find a spot where the next set will hit, and I see before me a powerful right wave coming in hot. It's building with a lot of core energy, and I hear the lip crashing intensely just around the corner from where I am lifted up onto the shoulder of the wave... I drop in, and start hauling ass down the face. The wave is just opening up to my right, and it is steep - I'm pumping along the wall up to the top and rush back down, and charge forward as another wall takes shape before me... I'm feeling so good, and so in the groove, and I'm just pumping up and down this giant - with all this speed, I cut back towards the breaking wave, and pull straight up the lip and kick around... it shoots me out of the churning whitewash, and I'm still standing and riding! My first cutback!! On a DOH wave, to boot!! I keep riding it out through the last small section as the waves from the other side breaking left collide with this wave to end this most amazing experience. Oh my god, fullness!

Livin' life to the fullest!

Here's the website where you can check out pictures from this all-time day at OB -