My Birthday was a raving success this year.
I got everything that I wished for and more... all that was on my list was waves. I just wanted to paddle out into something surfable that morning, like I did one year prior during my last day on Maui. After two weeks of relatively little surf, we got some waves that morning of July 8, 2004, and I was surfing my way into the second quarter century of my life.
Furthermore, it was awesome surf... there were definitely some head-high waves breaking out by seal rock at Ocean Beach, and I was charging the lineup of 3. When I first paddled out just after 6am, there were already a few heads out there. I spoke for a while with one of them whose name is Levi. He wasn't quite as successful in getting good rides, however, he was pleased to be back in the water after more than a month of recovery from a car accident.
I paddled in to check the time... 8am. I told everyone at work that I would be late if the surf was good - and it was! So I ran back out into the water, and paddled out towards seal rock. On my second wave, I turned around to catch a wave breaking outside, and starting moving for the next section to the right. As the wave and I approached the next sandbar, I watched the wave getting bigger and bigger to my right, and I was head right for a section that was going to pitch at any moment. As I approached the section, I saw it was going to be one big wall closing out, and just as I was dropping into the section, the lip pitched, and I was surrounded by water... for the first time, I was looking at the wave from the inside of the tube, and I wasn't even crouched down! Encapsulated by the wave, time froze, and my eyes opened once again in awe to the force of nature that created the green room in which I stood, conscious and aware.
The next phase of the ride was spitting white foam followed by the tumbling... it was beautiful. After emerging from the water, I began to yell in excitement at the top of my lungs, uncontrollably, having reached a new level of appreciation for this sport that already has earned my complete respect and loyalty. To have this happen on my birthday is far from miraculous. Do not forsake the power of visualization.
I wrapped up the day with my first Giant's baseball game, and was offered a road bike, gratuis, from a kind gentlemen. It was indeed a raving success.
I got everything that I wished for and more... all that was on my list was waves. I just wanted to paddle out into something surfable that morning, like I did one year prior during my last day on Maui. After two weeks of relatively little surf, we got some waves that morning of July 8, 2004, and I was surfing my way into the second quarter century of my life.
Furthermore, it was awesome surf... there were definitely some head-high waves breaking out by seal rock at Ocean Beach, and I was charging the lineup of 3. When I first paddled out just after 6am, there were already a few heads out there. I spoke for a while with one of them whose name is Levi. He wasn't quite as successful in getting good rides, however, he was pleased to be back in the water after more than a month of recovery from a car accident.
I paddled in to check the time... 8am. I told everyone at work that I would be late if the surf was good - and it was! So I ran back out into the water, and paddled out towards seal rock. On my second wave, I turned around to catch a wave breaking outside, and starting moving for the next section to the right. As the wave and I approached the next sandbar, I watched the wave getting bigger and bigger to my right, and I was head right for a section that was going to pitch at any moment. As I approached the section, I saw it was going to be one big wall closing out, and just as I was dropping into the section, the lip pitched, and I was surrounded by water... for the first time, I was looking at the wave from the inside of the tube, and I wasn't even crouched down! Encapsulated by the wave, time froze, and my eyes opened once again in awe to the force of nature that created the green room in which I stood, conscious and aware.
The next phase of the ride was spitting white foam followed by the tumbling... it was beautiful. After emerging from the water, I began to yell in excitement at the top of my lungs, uncontrollably, having reached a new level of appreciation for this sport that already has earned my complete respect and loyalty. To have this happen on my birthday is far from miraculous. Do not forsake the power of visualization.
I wrapped up the day with my first Giant's baseball game, and was offered a road bike, gratuis, from a kind gentlemen. It was indeed a raving success.
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