What kine of life is dis?

In the words of Tomo, the Japanese surf bum, Sssoooo good... maybe you rove it! Windswell was the saving energy force that got Ocean Beach to spit out some barrels this weekend. Size IS what counts, and Saturday was all fired up on dawn patrol. Not to mention that this haole boy was still intoxicated at dawn... the following is a brief recount of the previous twelve hours.

I was out with a friend late the night before... we made it through last call, and didn't crash out completely until a couple hours after getting back to the crash pad. I was hammered, and was reminded well after I had more than enough that I should not have ordered another drink :p 6am rolls around, and he wakes up dutifully in response to his car being parked at a metered spot halfway across town. I heard him leave, and thrash out the apartment stumbling to intercept him... waking up the neighborhood in the process of voicing my desire to tag along.

So we head back to my place, and by this time, I'm already getting anxious to get to the beach. Within two hours of waking up, I was in the cold waters of the Pacific. It turned out to be a really non-windy morning, so the shape of the waves was great, better than it has been since longtime. With windswell generating the force, the periods between waves was short, and it took quite the effort to paddle through the break.

I caught a number of good waves, one in particular that was the icing on the cake, and then everything else just melted together. The big one I caught reformed in sections, and since I was already up and riding, I had the advantage of speed, and rode right into a short bowly-shaped section that was just about to pitch... man, it felt so good pulling into this little barrel, all crouched down, scooping the water with my right hand, and feeling the lip caress the top of my head as it pitched over.

This was Saturday morning... if I didn't have a turtlehead poking out the ENTIRE time, I would have stayed out much longer. I managed to work with it for two hours before I had to relieve the pressure. It was so much easier in Hawaii... no wetsuits, no barriers to exit, just one's own self-consciousness.

Yesterday, I finally played tennis with the boy that almost got away. We went for drinks together last night, too, and I got to meet his circle of friends. We also got to see an insanely wild group of girls pull up to the Bar on Castro in a stretch hummer, and turn that little gay bar into a hopping scene fresh out of a straight strip club. These girls got up on the benches, and polished the poles. Every guy in there was screaming and whooping at the top of his lungs... it was awesome. I also ran into the couple for the first time in months.

I did drink too much. Hello Monday morning. Feels a little like Saturday morning. I shouldn't get into the habit of being a functional alcoholic.