Tuesday, August 08, 2006

Santa cruz is wierd and fun...

I'm going to visit the mystery spot this evening, and i have no idea what is in store for me tomorrow. Spent the night at a lovely college friends' parents house in the coolest neighborhood in town. Arose this morning before dawn and watched the sun rise over 'the hook' as I was scoping waves... blissed in the moment and awestruck by the beauty of morning and sunshine.

Waves were good... sat for a while at an empty spot that looked real good from shore, and enticed a few others over... a good set came through and all of us were thoroughly stoked... little barrels of fun. After sitting for a while, I paddled over to the hook, the next break over... as I approached the outside lineup, a set rolled in, and I missed the first and caught the next which took me all the way down the line, maybe a 15 second ride... definitely felt more confident and more willing to charge this morning. Crowds can be discouraging and intimidating... fortunately, this one haole boy came fa rip! You know da kine...

Day 3 continues...