Epic weekend in the life of this haole boy. Sunday morning session was happiness. It was everything that I've wanted for the past three months... it's still tough to wrap my mind around the idea of being out of pocket for that long. Welcome back, Mr. Deep Pockets... well, Mr. Pockets is just fine.

So instead of putting down my rake and scooper, I parked my green bug, and hit the water no-cal style, in suit 'n booties. The swell was kicking it up nicely all along Ocean Beach, and I caught a couple nice steep rights, and a really solid left at the beginning that got me mojo going. Going fa rip next time! Got to get my arms back in shape... I feel like my grandma could paddle faster than me.

The gripe's got me by the throat today... I'm feeling progressively more congested as the day lingers on. Survey says that I should call it a day and head for home.

Blog on...